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Au revoir, fashion month!

As the fall collections drew to a close this week, one thing became obvious: Fantasy is over. His models carried grocery bags, yoga mats, and other detritus of everyday life. They were all emblazoned with her signature crescent moon logo. But different characters require different props, which is why this season there was also a barrage of flowers—a reminder to look for softness during hard times, perhaps—but also books, newspapers, and even a basketball. Matching serving tray top is optional. The apple is both a symbol of health and the sinful influence of woman.

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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. Demna pointed this out in a voicemail that accompanied his latest Balenciaga outing, calling creativity the new luxury. The collection ditched the oversized looks that took farcical form at Vetements, exploring new, lighter and more streamlined territory. It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue? Probably it was a bit of both, with a hefty debt to the sheer looks devised for Bianca Censori by Kanye West. As a marketing message, it worked, even if little of it will work on a sales floor. Both were in top form this season, one delving into tropes of wealth, the other boss dressing and clothing as armour. The brutalised tailoring at Ottolinger, in particular, looked awkward but full of energy. At Noir, Kei Ninomiya delivered powerful, colourful, iridescent goods that made for one of his best collections: a personal take on the very Comme silhouette of stompy shoes and frilly doll-like skirts, that had a jolly kind of lightness. And yet, it was perhaps a bit too nostalgic, a bit too much of a replica. Going forward, it will be interesting to see more Kamali and less brand code.

It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue?

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By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The sub-label recently debuted its Cargo Fetish boots , featuring extended-leg uppers that can easily replace your bottom half. Elsewhere, here is everything dropping at Palace this week.

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Why not buy yourself a bodega bouquet? This was evident at their latest show in a stark white box, where models walked around with hands tucked into pockets right in front of their panty lines. The strategically placed pockets that evoked masturbation achieved just that, but there was more: the way Nicolas Di Felice charges his work with the raw energy of desire is unique, as sleek as it is soulful, and this makes him one of the most interesting, and yet underrated auteurs working in Paris today. A little bejeweled tiger at Luar. Find out if you qualify for a grant. Top 10 Shows of the Season. Courtesy of Miu Miu. Like the Chandler Bing record meme, but more fashionable. What is womanhood if not a precarious balancing act? From denim sets to puffer coats, everything creative director Daniel Roseberry touches turns to gold, and for some ensembles, I mean that literally. Valerio Mezzanotti. Giambattista Valli concocted a well-edited homage to Lee Radziwill. A real hit was the yellow long-sleeve dress with blue fringe hem, sure to fly off the racks come fall. Tags Designers Fashion Show.

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Estrop - Getty Images. BTW: the wooden clog is so back. Close this content. Courtesy, Nina Ricci. Meanwhile, at Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada was at her most seditious and bourgeois, delivering a comment on the classics that was about styling as much as it was about the freedom to be as one wants, at any given moment. It was pure Marant, with a lot of sass. A poem and a flower at DiPetsa. Link Copied. Vogue Runway The epicenter of runway news, street style, and emerging trends. The Rivian R2 is here, bringing the EV maker's lineup to three models and adding a more affordable option.