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The A-line leather jacket, round-collar blouse and sweater vest, and black patent pants were instantly recognizable in a way not many other designers can claim. Amidst the churn of creative directors today, a decade is some kind of record. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn. As strong as his design language is, the references were easy enough to spot, even if his reinterpretations were far from line-for-line. The jackets heavily embroidered with metallic threads and embellished with cabochon stones recalled the frock coats of the Louis XVI collection for spring he presented in the medieval part of the Louvre.

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